Drepung Monastery in Lhasa, Tibet: Daily Life and more
Introduction Perched on Gambo Utse Mountain like a whitewashed labyrinth, Drepung Monastery once housed 10,000 monks—making it the world’s largest monastery….
Introduction
Perched on Gambo Utse Mountain like a whitewashed labyrinth, Drepung Monastery once housed 10,000 monks—making it the world’s largest monastery. Founded in 1416, this Gelugpa sect powerhouse isn’t just about golden Buddhas; it’s where razor-sharp minds clash in debate courtyards, and silk thangkas taller than buses cascade down cliffs. Ready to walk its narrow alleys where scholar-monks still shape Tibetan Buddhism?
Drepung’s Soul: A Legacy of Fire & Wisdom
- Name’s Meaning: “Drepung” means “Rice Heap” in Tibetan, reflecting its sprawling, grain-like cluster of buildings.
- Historic Role: The 2nd–5th Dalai Lamas studied here; it once rivaled the Potala in political influence.
- Academic Pedigree: Home to Tibet’s most rigorous monastic university, specializing in Madhyamaka philosophy.
Step into the Scenes: A Day at Drepung
Dawn: Chanting in the Coiling Shadows
As first light seeps through mountain passes, follow robed monks to Tsokchen Hall. The scent of yak butter lamps mixes with the rumble of 200 monks chanting the *Prajnaparamita Sutra*. Sit cross-legged on a worn carpet; even non-Buddhists feel the vibration of centuries-old mantras in their bones.
Mid-Morning: The Dance of Debate
In the Courtyard of Dialectics, young monks (15–25 yrs) engage in explosive debates. Watch them:
- Stamp feet to punctuate questions (“Is emptiness inherent?”).
- Swing prayer beads like intellectual swords.
- Clap hands inches from opponents’ faces—a challenge to defend their logic.
Unlike Sera Monastery’s tamer debates, Drepung’s sessions are theatrical, almost combative.
Noon: Kitchen Chronicles
Peek into the monastic kitchen, where giant cauldrons simmer with thukpa (noodle soup). Novices haul barley sacks past 500-year-old soot-blackened walls. Grab a steel bowl (¥10 donation) and slurp alongside red-cheeked monks—meat-free, garlic-free, humility included.
Afternoon: The Ghost of Ganden Phodrang
Climb crumbling stairs to the Ganden Phodrang, the Dalai Lama’s former palace before the Potala. Faded murals depict wrathful deities feasting on ego. A lone caretaker monk offers barley beer (chang) in a cracked cup—decline gently; it’s potent!
Dusk: When Thangkas Touch the Sky
If visiting during Losar (Tibetan New Year, Feb/Mar), witness the Unfurling of the Giant Thangka:
- 1,000 monks haul a 30m-tall silk Buddha down the “Thangka Wall” cliff.
- Sunlight ignites its gold threads as pilgrims toss tsampa like golden snow.
How Drepung’s Monks Differ: Scholars, Not Just Spirits
- Strict Curriculum: 21-year study program (vs. Sera’s 19 years) with exams on moonless nights.
- No “Easy” Mantras: Focus on logic over ritual; even prayer beads are rare here.
- Rebel Legacy: Drepung monks historically led protests—note the bullet scars on 1959 uprising murals.
Drepung vs. Other Lhasa Monasteries
| Aspect | Drepung Monastery | Sera Monastery |
| Debates | Fierce, theatrical, outdoors | Calmer, shaded, indoor/outdoor |
| Architecture | Organic maze, integrated with mountain | Symmetrical, courtyard-focused |
| Atmosphere | Scholarly intensity | Meditative serenity |
Visitor Etiquette: 7 Sacred Rules
1. Silence Phones: Debates are sacred intellectual combat—no ringtones.
2. No Flash Photography: Especially during morning chanting (ask before clicking monks).
3. Walk Clockwise: Even in alleys—pilgrims still live here.
4. Respect Meal Times: Don’t enter dining halls after 11:30 AM.
5. Dress Code: Cover shoulders/knees; remove hats in chapels.
6. Don’t Touch Murals: Oils from skin damage 15th-century art.
7. Avoid Political Talks: Monks are scholars, not politicians.
Pro Tips for the Journey
- Altitude Alert: Drepung sits at 3,800m—hydrate and ascend slowly.
- Guided Wisdom: Hire ex-monk guides (¥200) near the entrance for secret stories.
- Timing: Visit Wednesday/Friday for debate sessions (1–3 PM).
- Getting There: Taxi from Lhasa (¥40) or local bus No. 24 (¥2).
Why Drepung Stays in Your Bones
Drepung isn’t a museum—it’s a roaring river of intellect and faith. You’ll leave with echoes of clapping debates, the bitter tang of butter tea, and the sense that wisdom isn’t found in books, but in the sweat of seeking.
May your mind duel with shadows and emerge lighter. Tashi Delek!
